Prym Consumer USA America's Notions and Crafts Company
	Print This | E-mail This | Close

Tips and Tools for Creating Soft-Sculptured Dolls
By Miriam Gourley

"Jesters," Simply Christmas by Miriam Gourley, published by Contemporary Books.

I have been sewing dolls since my childhood in Colorado. Cloth dolls, in particular, have always fascinated me. For the past 18 years, I have been designing dolls and many other fabric creations for patterns, magazines and my own books. There are no rules for making a cloth doll, but I would like to share some of my favorite tools and tips with you to make your sewing experience more enjoyable. So grab your sewing basket, and let's get started. And, if you're like me, you'll make a new friend along the way!

Stuffing Tips

• After stitching each body part, trim seam allowances to 1/8". Clip seams around all curves, inside corners and across points.
• Turn each body part right side out, use the Perfect Pointmaker (#4034) to make sure any points are sharp and not squared off (A).
• For very pointy noses (a profile type of face), it is sometimes difficult to keep the stuffing in place. To avoid this problem, place a little stuffing on top of the stitched area before turning. Re-stitch through the stuffing and layers of fabric. Trim close to stitching and turn right side out (B).
• Use polyester fiberfill for stuffing. To avoid lumpy bodies, fluff it a little before stuffing (C).
• Begin by stuffing outer areas of the doll's body parts first. Insert small pieces of fiberfill. Use the Mini Stuffer (#4037) for stuffing pointed areas and other unusual shapes (C).
• Insert larger pieces of fiberfill, using the Stuff-It™ II (#4036) to fill out the overall shape (D). While stuffing, use your free hand to flatten the doll's body part. To help avoid wrinkles, stuff each part firmly.
• After the doll's body, arms and legs are stuffed and the openings are stitched closed, then stitch the doll together. Use a strong sewing thread, such as the Nylon Thread, White (#4048) or Brown (#4049). Use a whip stitch to attach the legs to the lower end of the body, then the arms to the shoulders.

Figure A, Use the Perfect Pointmaker to make sure any points are sharp, not squared off. Figure B

Figure C, Use the Mini Stuffer for stuffing pointed areas and other unusual shapes. Figure D, Insert larger pieces of fiberfill, using the Stuff-It™ II to fill out the overall shape.

Making Sculpted Fingers

1. Using a pattern, trace hand and arm shape on twolayers of fabric, using the Fine Point Disappearing Ink Pen (#4030) (A).
2. Machine stitch on marked lines. Trim seam allowances to 1/8". Clip curves and turn right side out.
3. Use the Disappearing Ink Pen to draw finger lines on the right side of hand fabric shape.
4. Machine stitch on lines. Backstitch at beginning and end of each line; trim threads (B).
5. For each finger, cut a piece of pipe cleaner twice the length, plus 1/2". Fold pipe cleaner in half. Insert folded end into tip of each finger (C).
6. Stuff remainder of hand and arm. Stitch opening closed; attach arm to body. Bend fingers to desired shape.

Figure A, Trace Hand and arm shape on two layers of fabric, using the Fine Point Disappearing Ink Pen. Figure B, Backstitch at beginning and end of each line; trim threads.

Figure C, For each finger, cut a piece of pipe cleaner twice the length, plus ½". Fold pipe cleaner in half. Insert folded end into tip of each finger.

Sculpting A Nose

1. Draw nose on face using the Fine Point Disappearing Ink Pen (#4030).
2. Use Monofilament Thread (#4047), which is a transparent
   Nylon thread, for creating "invisible" stitches that will shape the nose. The 3" Sculpting Needle (#4053) works well and is easy to manipulate.
3. To begin, insert needle and thread into top of head, bringing out needle on right side of upper nose (A).
4. Make a small stitch in place and re-insert needle into right side of nose, bringing out needle on left side (B).
5. Take a small stitch in place below exit point on left. Re-insert needle into nose, bringing out needle on right below first stitch. Pull thread slightly after each stitch to raise the center of the nose slightly and create dimension.
6. Go back and forth, working down nose.
7. At base of nose, insert needle and take a stitch, bringing out needle from middle of opposite side (C) . Repeat on otherside at base of nose.

Painting Tips

Doll's Body

1. Use flat brush to paint doll's head, neck, arms and legs with flesh colored paint. Let dry; then use the sanding sponge to smooth the surface.
2. Apply a second coat of paint and let dry.

Simple Face

1. For cheeks, dip stencil brush in paint. Rub excess onto a paper towel until paint has a powder-like quality.
2. Apply paint to doll's cheeks in a circular motion (A).
3. Using the Permanent Black Fabric Pen, draw a smile (B).
4. Make French Knots for the eyes using the embroidery floss.

Painted Face

1. Use a #2 lead pencil to draw facial details.
2. Use a liner brush to add eye details - black for pupil; blue; green or brown for iris; light cream for whites of eyes and a small dot in the pupil for a highlight. The lid is painted warm beige. Use the Permanent black Fabric Pen to draw eyelashes and upper eyelid line (A)
3. Use medium brown and liner brush to paint eyebrows. Make hair-like short strokes, diagonally or a simple one-stroke curve.
4. Dry brush the cheeks (see Simple Face). This method may also be used if eye shadow is desired.
5. For the lips, use a rosy color, thinned with a little water. When the paint is dry, use warm beige or light brown (with water added) to make a very thin line through the middle of the lips (B).
6. When paint is dry, spray the painted areas of face and hands with a matte sealer.

Simple Doll Wig

1. Cut a square of muslin to fit the upper area of the doll's head (A).
2. Cut the fibers long enough to drape over the doll's head and to the
   length of the finished hair style.
3. Lay the fibers across the muslin, bunching them so none of the muslin shows through.
4. Using the flesh-color thread, stitch the fibers to the muslin center (B).
5. Cut the muslin into a football shape, with the pointed ends at the beginning and end of the stitching (C).
6. Using Unique Stitch glue, apply muslin to the doll's head, with the part centered or off to one side.
7. Trim or style the hair as desired.

Button Joints
Here is an easy way to make moveable arms and legs using the Dritz for Dolls Cover Button Kit (#4026), which contains
five 7/16" buttons along with a mold and pusher to make covering easy.

1. Cover buttons with fabric to match doll's body, following package instructions (A).
2. Using Nylon Thread (#4048 white or #4049 brown) and a 5" Joining Needle (#4052), thread the needle and knot end of thread.
3. Insert needle into upper arm, through shoulder area of body, out the other side and into the other arm.
4. As the needle exits the second arm, insert needle into shank of covered button, then back through arm, body and other arm (B).
5. Insert needle into second button shank, back through arm, body and arm, pulling the thread slightly.
6. Repeat Steps 2-4, one or two more times, until arms feel secure. These steps may be repeated to attach legs to the body.

 For More Information
Miriam Gourley publishes her own patterns and books. For an order form, please send a SASE to: Fabric Folke, 1033 North 560 East, Orem, UT 84097.

Print This | E-mail This | Close Copyright ©2004 Prym Consumer USA Inc. | All rights reserved | Contact Us | Privacy Policy | Product Recalls 'Print This' powered by Synergy Point PageTools™