Tips and Tools for Creating Your Own Teddy Bears
By Linda Carr

Teddy bears were named after President Theodore Roosevelt, following his famous hunting trip to Mississippi in 1902. The original name was "Teddy's Bears." Since then teddy bears have become an American tradition, loved and cherished by both children and adults. Bears are as unique and individual as the people who make them. Often created as gifts, they become family heirlooms to be passed down from generation to generation. Each bear develops its own personality as it is being sewn. Enjoy the process!

Pattern Selection

Bears come in all shapes and sizes. Patterns can be very simple or many pieces joined together to create a three-dimensional
body. Body parts can be stitched together or joined together with plastic joints.

Fabric Selection

The fabric you choose for your Teddy Bear will create a distinct personality, making your bear very special! Traditionally Teddy Bears are made from mohair or fur. However, these fabrics can also be used: Fake fur, push felt, coating fabric (wool, alpaca), brocades, velvet, polar fleece, chenille and even an old coat or quilt. Fabrics with a pile or nap will often give the best results.

Tips for Cutting Out Patterns

• To help preserve pattern pieces for repeated use, adhere tissue pattern pieces to heavy-weight paper using a spray adhesive. This creates a template, making the pieces easier to handle.
• When using a pile fabric or fake fur , always cut out pattern pieces individually. Trace pattern pieces on back of fabric using the Permanent Black Fabric Pen (#4029). Be sure to turn second piece over to create a mirror image.
• Before tracing pattern pieces, check the direction of the fur or pile. Patterns for ears, head and body should be placed on the fur with the pile going UP. Patterns for the arms and legs should be placed on the fur with the pile going DOWN.
• When cutting out pattern pieces, insert scissors between the backing and the fur pile. Cut only the backing.
• After cutting, trim seam allowances on all fur pile. Using shears, trim fur to 1/8" on muzzle, ears and paws. Keep fabric flat while trimming to keep the pile even.

Spraying tissue pattern pieces Figure A

Pile Up Figure B, Pile Down

Figure C Figure D

Sewing Construction Tips

• Before stitching, pin pieces together. Tucking all fur pile inside. Use the Assembly Pins (#4002), which are 1 3/4" long, to hold pieces together while stitching. These straight pins are extra-long and have yellow heads, which are easy to see and grasp.
• To make seams "invisible," pick out any pile that might get caught when stitching the seam. This works well on low-pile fabrics as well.
• When machine stitching, use a Size 14 or 16 Machine Needle (#4028).
• Before attaching foot to leg, stitch felt or leather scraps on bottom of feet to create pads (A). Or, embroider foot pads on feet using embroidery floss (B).
• When stitching underarm seams, where four thick layers of heavy fur come together, stitch up to one seam and stop; then stitch up to seam from other side. Don't try to cross seam.
• When attaching legs or arms to body, if fur is too thick, attach the front side by machine and stitch the backside by hand with Nylon Thread, White (#4048) or Brown (#4049).

Figure A Figure B

Figures C and D

Stuffing Tips

• After stitching body or body parts, trim seam allowances on curved areas of paws and nose to 1/8". Do not trim body seam allowances.
• Use the rounded end of the Perfect Pointmaker (#4034) to press open seam allowances before turning body parts right side out.
• To hand press short, narrow seams, use the Seam Presser (#4042), which has an angle edge and can be used by those who are right or left-handed.
• Use the Stuff-It™ II tool (#4036) to stuff body parts. Use the tip of the tool to stuff corners and curves. Begin with small pieces of fiberfill, adding larger pieces to fill out the overall shape. Stuff head firmly; other parts can be looser.
• The Mini Stuffer (#4037) can be used to stuff hard-to-reach areas, such as the nose.
• To create a wonderful weighted feeling to your teddy bear, add three to four small, round drapery weights to each paw and foot while stuffing.
• Give your bear a personality! Before stitching your bear's body closed, stuff a Personality Heart (F) inside the body. Hearts have a one-inch diameter. Choose from Happy (#4072), Lovable (#4073), Huggable (#4074), and Playful (#4075).

Figure A Figure B

Figure C Figure D

Figure E Figure F, Item #4072

Finishing Details

• After stuffing, use the Joining Needles (#4052), available in 5", 7", and 10" lengths to make thread joints between heads, arms and legs.
• To make arms and legs moveable, use plastic joints for attaching.
• Ears - Create different looks. Keep the pile long and natural (A)..Or trim the pile on the inside of the ear and make a pleat when attaching ear to head (B). Or, trim the pile on the inside of the ear, make a pleat and darken base of ear, using the Permanent Black Fabric Pen (#4029) (C).
• Eyes - Use the Hole Punching Tool (#4044) to make a hole in fur before inserting plastic eyes with clip backs. Draw circles around outer rim of button eye area with the Permanent Black Fabric Pen (#4029). This adds depth to the eye area.
• After setting eyes, stitch from one eye to the other on the wrong side of fabric, using a 3" Sculpting Needle (#4053). This helps to anchor the eyes, pulls them in and prevents face from shifting.
• Nose - Roll-up a small amount of embroidery floss and whip stitch to nose placement.
• Mouth --When stitching between nose and mouth, pull thread tight to create an indentation or bulge on upper lip.
• Sign and date your teddy bear on one of the paws or bottom, using the Permanent Black Fabric Pen (#4029). It will be appreciated by the next person who loves it!
• Use a brush pick to fluff and groom fur on your teddy bear.

Figure A Figure B

Figure C, D, and E Figure F

Figure G Figure H

Figure I Figure J

Figure K

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